3D Printing R: Performance Parameters Compared
A working comparison of the resins we print most, sorted by the numbers that decide whether a part survives service. Read it if you are choosing between a tough resin and a rigid one, or between printing a bracket and machining it.

3D printing r resins compared by key parameters
Typical values for fully post-cured parts. Suppliers vary, so treat these as screening ranges, not incoming inspection limits.
| Resin type | Tensile strength | Elongation at break |
|---|---|---|
| Standard rigid (clear or grey) | 50–65 MPa | 3–6% |
| Tough ABS-like | 40–55 MPa | 15–30% |
| Flexible rubber-like | 3–10 MPa | 80–200% |
| High-temperature | 60–80 MPa | 2–4% |
| Rigid glass-filled | 70–90 MPa | 1–3% |
| Biocompatible class | 45–60 MPa | 5–10% |
| Castable burnout | 20–35 MPa | 4–8% |
| Water-washable draft | 35–50 MPa | 6–12% |
How to read a 3D printing r data sheet
Every resin supplier publishes a tensile strength number and almost nobody publishes the test standard behind it. Before you compare two 3D printing r grades, find the standard. ASTM D638 Type I and Type IV specimens give different numbers from the same bottle, because the gauge length changes how the load spreads. ISO 527 uses a different specimen again.
The second thing to check is cure state. A part pulled off the build plate and wiped clean is not the material on the data sheet. Most published values assume a full post-cure under the supplier's recommended wavelength and time. Skip that step and a tough resin behaves like a brittle one.
Third, look at elongation at break next to tensile strength, not instead of it. A resin with 70 MPa tensile and 2% elongation is stiff. It carries load without deflecting, then cracks at the first sharp corner. A resin with 45 MPa and 25% elongation bends, absorbs impact, and holds a snap fit. Those are two different parts, not two quality levels.
- 1Find the standardASTM D638 Type I versus Type IV, or ISO 527, changes the result.
- 2Check cure stateData sheet values assume a full post-cure, not a wiped part.
- 3Pair strength with elongationStiff and tough solve different problems.
Stiffness, impact, and creep in printed parts
Layer orientation matters more in resin than in filament printing, though less than most people assume. A tensile bar printed flat and a bar printed on edge can differ by 10 to 20 percent in strength, because the layers run across the load path in one case and along it in the other. If a part sees bending, orient the build so layers run parallel to the neutral axis.
Impact resistance is where the gap between resin classes shows up fastest. Standard rigid resin at 3 to 6 percent elongation will survive a drop from a desk and shatter from a drop onto concrete. Tough ABS-like resin at 15 to 30 percent elongation takes the second drop too. For enclosures with clips, choose by elongation first.
Creep is the parameter engineers forget. A resin bracket holding a 2 kg load at 40 °C will keep moving for weeks. Published data rarely includes creep curves, so the practical test is a loaded sample on a shelf next to your desk. Check it after a week. If it has moved, the part needs metal or a glass-filled grade.
- 1Build orientationRun layers along the load path, not across it.
- 2Impact firstElongation predicts drop survival better than tensile strength.
- 3Creep testLoad a sample and measure it after seven days.
Heat deflection and why it limits resin parts
Heat deflection temperature, usually quoted at 0.45 MPa or 1.82 MPa, tells you when a loaded part starts to sag. Standard rigid resin sits around 55 to 65 °C at 0.45 MPa. A part in a car interior on a summer day can reach 70 °C. That part will bow.
High-temperature resins push the number to 120 °C and above, and the trade is elongation. They are stiff and often brittle. If your part needs both heat resistance and toughness, the honest answer is usually a machined or cast metal part, not a resin one.
Post-cure raises heat deflection, sometimes by 20 °C or more, but it also raises shrinkage. A part that measured 50.00 mm after wash may measure 49.85 mm after a full thermal cure. For anything with a fit, machine the mating part after the resin part is fully cured, not before.
- 1Car interiors70 °C is reachable and standard resin will sag.
- 2High-temp trade-offHeat resistance usually costs elongation.
- 3Cure before measuringShrinkage continues through post-cure.
When 3D printing r is the wrong call
Resin printing wins on geometry that cannot be cut: internal channels, lattice cores, nested parts, and organic shapes. It wins on speed for the first article, and it wins when you need five parts tomorrow.
It loses on anything that threads, bears load long term, or needs a tolerance tighter than ±0.1 mm across a long dimension. Resin shrinks during cure and keeps moving for days. Threads printed in resin strip at low torque.
For those parts we machine them. Aluminium 6061 holds ±0.005 mm and takes real threads. A machined bracket with a printed cover is a common split: the resin does the shape, the metal does the load. Send both and we quote them together with a DFM note on which features belong on which process.
The decision usually comes down to one question. Will this part be measured, or will it be looked at? Measured parts get machined. Looked-at parts get printed.
- 1PrintInternal channels, lattices, organic shapes, first articles.
- 2MachineThreads, long tolerances, sustained loads, wear surfaces.
- 3Split the partPrinted cover on a machined bracket is often cheapest.
Cure, wash, and support choices that change results
Wash time is a real variable. Under-washed parts keep uncured resin in the surface, and that resin bleeds out over weeks, turning the part tacky and changing its dimensions. Over-washed parts in IPA go chalky and lose impact strength. Follow the supplier's wash time and change the solvent before it saturates.
Support placement decides surface finish on downward faces. Fewer, thicker supports leave larger marks. More, thinner supports leave a smoother face but take longer to remove and raise the risk of a failed build. For cosmetic faces, orient the part so the visible surface is either upward or vertical.
Post-cure in a chamber with the correct wavelength, usually 405 nm for LCD and DLP, and rotate the part halfway through. A part cured on one side only will be hard on the top and soft underneath. That difference shows up as warping after a few days.
- 1Wash timeUnder-washed bleeds, over-washed goes chalky.
- 2Support marksKeep cosmetic faces upward or vertical.
- 3Rotate during cureUneven cure causes warping days later.
Which resin to pick
Pick tough ABS-like resin when the part snaps, clips, or gets dropped, and rigid or glass-filled resin when it must hold shape under load. Pick high-temperature resin only when the service temperature is above 70 °C and the part is not impact loaded. If the part carries sustained load, takes threads, or needs ±0.005 mm, machine it in aluminium instead.
Resin selection questions we get
Can I compare resin data sheets across suppliers?
Only if the test standard, specimen type, and cure state match. ASTM D638 Type I and Type IV give different numbers from the same material, and a data sheet measured after a full post-cure will read higher than an as-printed sample.
Ask for the standard and the cure schedule. If a supplier cannot name either, treat the number as marketing.
Does color change the mechanical properties?
Pigment loading shifts things slightly. Clear resin is usually the most brittle, and heavily loaded opaque colors can be a few percent weaker in elongation. The differences are small next to the gap between resin classes.
For a structural part, choose the class first and the color second.
How long do printed resin parts last outdoors?
UV is the problem. Uncoated resin parts yellow and embrittle under direct sun, often within a few months in a hot climate. A clear coat helps but does not stop it.
For outdoor parts that matter, use a machined or cast part, or plan to replace the resin part on a schedule.
Can resin parts be tapped or threaded?
Small threads strip at low torque. A printed M3 thread in standard resin typically fails well below the torque a metal screw can take.
Use a heat-set insert, or a printed clearance hole with a captured nut. If the joint must hold, machine the threaded half.
What tolerance can I expect on a resin print?
For small features, ±0.1 mm is a realistic expectation on a well-tuned machine after full cure. Across a 100 mm dimension, shrinkage and cure movement push that wider.
If a dimension is critical, tell us which one. We can print it oversize and machine the critical face, or move the whole part to aluminium.
Is resin printing cheaper than machining for a one-off?
Usually yes, for a part with complex internal geometry and no tight tolerances. Resin has almost no setup cost, so a single part is economical. Machining wins back the cost as tolerances tighten and quantities rise.
Send the file and we will quote both routes with a DFM note on the trade-offs.
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