Problems to Be Careful When Drilling Materials That Are Difficult to Cut
Stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys punish a drill that is fed too light or run too fast. This page is for engineers and machinists who already drill aluminium and mild steel and now need the same holes in tougher stock. Read it and you can tell which failure you are looking at, why it happened, and what to change on the next part.

In this article
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Common problems to be careful when drilling: symptom, cause, fix
Match what you see at the spindle to the likely cause before you touch any parameter.
| Symptom | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Drill squeals, hole wall hardens | Feed too light, rubbing not cutting | Raise feed per rev to 0.10–0.15 mm |
| Corners of the tip chip off | Cutting speed too high for the alloy | Drop surface speed 20–30% |
| Chips weld to the flute | Heat with no coolant at the edge | Flood or through-tool coolant, check pressure |
| Chips jam, torque spikes | Deep hole with no peck cycle | Peck every 0.5–1 × Ø, add dwell |
| Hole comes out oversize | Weak setup, drill walk at entry | Spot drill, shorten overhang, check runout |
| Drill snaps near the tip | Runout over 0.02 mm, poor grip | Re-check holder, replace worn collet |
| Tapping tears after drilling | Hole too small or work hardened | Hold hole at 0.05 mm over tap size |
The short version
In hard-to-cut alloys, feed light and you harden the wall; feed right, cool the edge, and clear the chip, and the hole comes out straight. If your shop would rather not fight this on every batch, send us the drawing and we will run the first part as a check.
Why these alloys behave so differently from mild steel
The problems to be careful when drilling start with the material, not the machine. Austenitic stainless, titanium and nickel alloys keep their strength at the temperature where mild steel has already gone soft. That means the cutting edge never gets an easy ride. All the heat that would normally leave with the chip stays near the edge and the hole wall.
Nickel alloys such as Inconel are the worst case. Thermal conductivity is roughly a third of steel, so heat concentrates in a very small zone. Titanium adds a second problem: it reacts with most tool coatings and with air at high temperature, so the chip tends to gall and weld instead of sliding.
There is also a chemical side. Titanium and stainless both work harden when the tool rubs instead of cutting. The surface under the edge gets harder than the parent metal, and the next revolution of the flute meets that harder skin. Drill a hole with a dull edge and the second pass is cutting something noticeably tougher than the first.
The practical point is that these materials punish light passes. A machinist trained on 6061 aluminium often backs off the feed when the drill sounds unhappy. On stainless that makes things worse. Rubbing creates heat, heat creates hardening, and hardening breaks the edge.
- 1Low conductivityHeat stays in the edge and the workpiece, not the chip.
- 2Work hardeningRubbing raises surface hardness above the base metal.
- 3GallingTitanium and stainless tend to weld to the cutting edge.
- 4SpringbackThese alloys push back on the drill and raise cutting force.
Drill geometry and grade for hard-to-cut stock
For stainless 303, 304, 316 and 17-4PH, a solid carbide drill with an AlTiN or TiAlN coating is the normal choice. The coating keeps the heat off the carbide. For 304 and 316, look for a 140° point and a thicker web. A 118° point with a thin web flexes and chips at the corners.
Titanium TC4 (Ti-6Al-4V) prefers a sharp, uncoated or lightly coated carbide grade. TiAlN can react with titanium at high edge temperature. Keep the cutting speed low, around 30–45 m/min, and never let the drill dwell in the cut. A dwell in titanium is a spot weld.
For Inconel, cobalt HSS or fine-grain carbide with a 135–140° point and a strong negative rake works better than a general-purpose geometry. The edge needs mass. Thin, sharp geometries fail quickly in nickel alloys because the corner cannot take the load.
Coatings are not decoration. They matter most where the material is gummy. On 316L, an uncoated drill will show built-up edge within a few holes. On aluminium 6061, the opposite is true: a high-polish uncoated drill with a steep helix clears chips best, and a rough coating drags.
- 1StainlessSolid carbide, AlTiN, 140° point, web thickness 0.25–0.3 × Ø.
- 2TitaniumSharp carbide, low speed, no dwell, high-pressure coolant.
- 3InconelCobalt HSS or fine-grain carbide, 135–140°, strong corner.
- 4AluminiumUncoated high-polish, 40–45° helix, fast and open flutes.
Coolant and chip evacuation decide the outcome
In stainless and nickel alloys, coolant does two jobs. It lowers edge temperature, and it flushes chips out of the flute. If chips stay in the hole, they get re-cut, which doubles the heat and triples the load on the drill. Through-tool coolant at 40–70 bar is the reliable answer for holes deeper than 3 × Ø.
Flood coolant aimed from one side is not enough for deep holes. It cools the outside of the drill but does not reach the tip. A peck cycle is the fallback when through-tool is not available. Peck every 0.5–1 × Ø with a full retract, and let the spindle keep turning so the chip clears.
Chip form tells you whether the parameters are right. Stainless should produce short, curled chips with a slight silver-grey colour. Long stringy chips mean the feed is too low. Blue or black chips mean the speed is too high or the coolant is not reaching the edge.
In titanium, the risk is different. Fine powdery chips look harmless but pack the flute and cause heat. A light peck with good pressure clears them. If you see a bright white spark, stop. That is titanium burning at the edge, and the hole is already damaged.
- 1Through-tool40–70 bar for holes deeper than 3 × Ø.
- 2Peck cycleEvery 0.5–1 × Ø with full retract when through-tool is not available.
- 3Chip colourSilver-grey is good, blue or black means back off.
- 4Titanium sparksStop immediately, re-check speed and coolant.
Hole accuracy, straightness and finish
Difficult materials also push back on the tool. Cutting force is higher, so any weakness in the setup shows up as oversize holes, tapered walls or a drill that walks on entry. A spot drill with a 90° or 120° point removes the walk and gives the main drill a true start.
Runout is the quiet killer. On a carbide drill, total indicated runout above 0.02 mm loads one flute more than the other. In stainless that flute work hardens first, then chips. Check the holder and collet before blaming the drill. A worn collet can add 0.03 mm of runout on its own.
Depth-to-diameter ratio sets the practical limit. Beyond 5 × Ø, chip evacuation and drill deflection both get harder. Beyond 10 × Ø, you are in gun-drilling territory and a standard twist drill will not hold straightness without a pilot and a guide bushing.
Finish follows the same logic. A sharp edge and steady feed give Ra 0.8–1.6 μm in stainless. A dull edge or a dwell leaves a torn, hardened wall that is hard to ream and hard to tap. On a reamed hole, leave 0.1–0.2 mm for the reamer. On a tapped hole, keep the drilled hole 0.05 mm over the nominal tap size so the tap cuts instead of rubbing.
- 1Spot first90° or 120° spot drill removes entry walk.
- 2Runout limitKeep TIR under 0.02 mm on carbide drills.
- 3Depth ratioPlan a pilot or gun drill beyond 10 × Ø.
- 4Reaming stockLeave 0.1–0.2 mm for the reamer.
What we check before a difficult drilling job runs
On our 127 CNC machines, drilling these alloys is a normal part of the week. Inconel and titanium parts run on the 5-axis centers where the setup is rigid and the coolant pressure is high. Stainless production runs often go on the mill-turn centers so the hole is drilled and turned in one setup.
The first check is material condition. 304 and 316 arrive in different hardness states, and a batch that is 30 HB harder will change the feed. We check the certificate and, when needed, cut a test hole. On 17-4PH we confirm whether it is in the solution-treated or aged condition before choosing parameters.
The second check is the drill itself. New drills get a runout reading in the holder. Worn drills are measured at the corner, not the margin. A corner wear land over 0.15 mm is the point where stainless starts to work harden, so that drill goes for regrinding.
The third check is the hole. We inspect diameter, roundness and wall finish on a sample before the batch runs. With ±0.005 mm tolerance on finished parts, a drilled hole that is 0.03 mm oversize will not clean up in a light reaming pass. Catching that on the first part is much cheaper than catching it on the last.
- 1Material stateConfirm hardness and heat treatment before setting feed.
- 2Drill runoutMeasure in the holder, not on the bench.
- 3Corner wearRegrind when the wear land passes 0.15 mm.
- 4First-part checkVerify diameter and finish before the batch runs.
Step by step: drilling a tough alloy without wrecking the tool
Follow the order. Skipping the spot drill or the coolant check is where most of these problems begin.
- 1Confirm the material and its conditionCheck the mill certificate for grade and hardness. 304 at 180 HB and 304 at 220 HB need different feeds. For 17-4PH, confirm solution-treated or aged before you cut.
- 2Pick the drill grade and geometryStainless: solid carbide, AlTiN, 140° point. Titanium: sharp carbide, low speed. Inconel: cobalt HSS or fine-grain carbide, 135–140°. Match the point angle to the material, not to what is already in the holder.
- 3Check runout in the holderIndicate the drill near the tip. Keep TIR under 0.02 mm. If it is over, change the collet before changing the speed. Runout causes more broken drills than speed does.
- 4Spot drill the entryUse a 90° or 120° spot drill to a depth just past the full diameter. This removes walk on angled or curved surfaces and gives the main drill a true start.
- 5Set speed and feed from the alloy, not the drillStainless 316: about 50–70 m/min, 0.10–0.15 mm/rev. Titanium TC4: 30–45 m/min, 0.08–0.12 mm/rev. Inconel: 15–25 m/min, 0.05–0.10 mm/rev. Never feed light to be safe.
- 6Turn on high-pressure coolantThrough-tool at 40–70 bar for holes deeper than 3 × Ø. If through-tool is not available, use a peck cycle every 0.5–1 × Ø with a full retract.
- 7Watch the chip and the soundShort silver-grey chips are correct. Long stringy chips mean more feed. Blue chips or a squeal mean less speed or better coolant. Stop on titanium sparks.
- 8Measure the first hole before the batchCheck diameter, roundness and wall finish. If the hole is oversize, fix runout or the spot drill before running the rest. Leave 0.1–0.2 mm for reaming and 0.05 mm over tap size for tapping.
Questions we get about drilling difficult materials
Can I drill stainless 304 with a standard HSS bit?
You can, but expect short life and poor hole quality. HSS loses hardness around 600 °C, and 304 keeps its strength well past that. Cobalt HSS is a step up and works for shallow holes at low speed.
For any production quantity, solid carbide with a coating is cheaper per hole. It holds the corner and keeps the hole size stable across the batch.
Why does my drill squeal in titanium even at low speed?
Squeal usually means the edge is rubbing, not cutting. In titanium that comes from too little feed per revolution, a dull corner, or runout that loads one flute.
Raise the feed to 0.08–0.12 mm/rev, check runout under 0.02 mm, and make sure coolant reaches the tip. Do not add a dwell at the bottom of the hole.
How deep can I drill before I need a peck cycle?
With through-tool coolant at 40–70 bar, a carbide drill can go past 5 × Ø in one pass in stainless. Without through-tool, start pecking at 2–3 × Ø.
Past 10 × Ø, chip evacuation and straightness both get difficult. That is when a pilot hole, a guide bushing or a gun drill becomes the practical route.
My holes come out oversize in 316. Where do I look first?
Check runout and the spot drill before you change the speed. Runout makes the drill orbit, and a weak spot lets it walk on entry. Both add size.
Also check the holder and the workpiece clamp. In 316 the cutting force is high, and a part that moves even slightly will drill oversize.
Is a coated drill always better?
No. Coatings help in stainless and nickel alloys because they keep heat off the carbide. In titanium, some coatings react with the chip and make galling worse.
In aluminium, a high-polish uncoated drill with open flutes clears chips better than a rough coating. Match the coating to the material.
What tolerance can I hold on a drilled hole?
A drilled hole in stainless or titanium typically holds ±0.05 mm on diameter with a rigid setup and a sharp drill. Tighter than that needs reaming or boring.
On finished parts we work to ±0.005 mm where the drawing calls for it, but that is after reaming or milling, not straight from the drill.
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