Laser Cut Basics Every Engineer Should Know
A laser cut removes metal by melting or vaporizing it along a programmed path. That sounds simple until you check the edge, the heat-affected zone, and the thickness limit. This page covers the mechanism, the practical boundaries, and the point where milling takes over.

How a laser cut actually removes metal
A focused beam hits the sheet and the irradiated spot heats in microseconds. The metal either melts or vaporizes. Assist gas then pushes the molten pool out of the kerf, leaving a narrow slot behind. The beam travels along the contour and the cut appears as a continuous line, not as a series of drilled holes.
Absorption depends on wavelength and on surface condition. A 1,064 nm fiber beam couples well into steel, stainless, and aluminium once the surface is clean. Reflective and highly conductive metals, such as copper and brass, need more power and a tighter focus to reach the same penetration depth.
The kerf is not zero. A fiber source leaves a slot roughly 0.1–0.5 mm wide, and that width changes with nozzle diameter, focus position, and gas pressure. If your part has a 0.3 mm tab between two cutouts, the kerf can consume most of it.
Cut quality comes from three settings: power, speed, and focal position. Too much power at low speed burns the edge and widens the heat-affected zone. Too little power leaves dross attached to the bottom face. There is a narrow window where the edge is clean and the taper stays small.
Thickness, kerf, and material limits
Thickness sets the first hard boundary. A fiber laser cutting mild steel handles roughly 20 mm, stainless around 12 mm, and aluminium around 10 mm. Beyond that, the beam scatters, the kerf widens, and the edge turns rough. Those numbers move with power, so a 6 kW source and a 12 kW source do not share the same ceiling.
Thin sheet has its own problem. Below about 0.5 mm, heat input warps the part and the edge distorts. You get a cut, but the flatness is gone. Nesting tight parts on thin stock usually makes this worse.
Reflective metals demand attention. Copper, brass, and bare aluminium reflect a large share of the beam back toward the optics. Modern heads handle this better than older CO2 machines, but the cut is still slower and the edge is less predictable.
Material thickness also decides whether a laser cut is the right first operation at all. If the part needs pockets, threads, or a bored bore, the laser only gives you the outline. Everything else comes from a mill or a lathe after the blank is cut.
Heat-affected zone and what it does to the part
Every laser cut leaves a heat-affected zone, usually 0.05–0.3 mm deep. Inside that band the grain structure changes. Hardness can rise, and for some alloys the material becomes more brittle than the parent plate.
For mild steel and most aluminium grades, the zone is harmless. You deburr the edge and move on. For 17-4PH stainless, tool steel, or any part that will be hardened later, the zone matters. It can cause a hardness gradient that shows up after heat treatment.
Titanium and its alloys need more care. The molten edge can pick up oxygen and nitrogen from the atmosphere, forming a hard, brittle layer. A proper assist gas shield keeps that layer thin. A poor shield leaves a discolored edge that will crack under load.
If the edge will be a sealing face or a fatigue-critical surface, plan a secondary operation. A light face mill or a grinding pass removes 0.1–0.2 mm and takes the zone with it. That step is cheap insurance on parts that see cyclic load.
What tolerance a laser cut can hold
A laser cut holds roughly ±0.1 mm on thin sheet over short spans, and it drifts as the part grows. Over a 1,000 mm length, expect ±0.2 mm or worse. Thermal expansion during the cut and table positioning both add error.
The kerf taper adds a second error. The top of the cut is wider than the bottom on thicker plate, so a hole measures differently at each face. On a 6 mm plate the difference can reach 0.1 mm. If a dowel pin must fit, that gap is already too large.
Positional tolerance is separate from dimensional tolerance. Hole-to-hole distance depends on how the machine moves between features, not on the cut width. A good nesting plan keeps related features close so the error does not stack.
Because of these limits, a laser cut suits brackets, plates, covers, and frames. It does not suit bearing bores, press fits, or anything with a ±0.005 mm callout. Those features belong on a CNC machine with a rigid setup.
Using a laser cut blank before CNC machining
Many parts start as a laser cut blank and finish on a mill. The blank gives you an accurate outline and holes that locate the part in the fixture. The mill then cuts pockets, bores, and faces that the beam cannot reach.
This sequence saves material and cycle time. A 4,000 mm plate can be nested with several parts, cut in one pass, and then loaded on a machine with a 4,000 × 400 × 150 mm travel envelope. The outline is already done.
Watch the stock allowance. Leave 0.3–0.5 mm on any edge that will be machined, because the as-cut face is rough and slightly tapered. Clamping on a rough cut edge also shifts the part, so locate on a hole, not on the outer profile.
If the blank was cut from stainless or titanium, check the heat-affected zone before the finishing pass. A 0.2 mm cleanup cut is usually enough. On hardened alloys, verify hardness after the cut, not after the finish.
For thin sheet parts that need flatness, plan the cut last. Cutting before a forming or welding step reintroduces distortion that you already removed.
Laser cut vs CNC milling: pick by feature
Match the process to the feature, not to the part name.
| Feature or need | Laser cut | CNC milling |
|---|---|---|
| Flat plate outline | Fast, low setup | Works, but slower |
| Wall thickness | 0.5–20 mm typical | Any, down to thin ribs |
| Tolerance | ±0.1 mm short spans | ±0.005 mm |
| Hole Ø under 2 mm | Possible, taper risk | Clean and repeatable |
| Pockets and steps | Not possible | Standard |
| Threads | Not possible | Cut or tapped |
| Edge finish | Ra 3.2 μm or rougher | Ra 0.2–3.2 μm |
| Heat-affected zone | 0.05–0.3 mm | None to minimal |
| Unit cost at 1 pc | Low | Higher setup share |
| Unit cost at 10,000 pcs | Low | Low with fixtures |
When to cut and when to machine
If the part is a flat profile in steel, stainless, or aluminium and the tolerance is looser than ±0.1 mm, start with a laser cut. If it needs pockets, threads, bores, or ±0.005 mm fits, machine it. On complex parts, do both: cut the blank, then mill the features.
Common questions
Can a laser cut produce a hole smaller than the material thickness?
It can, but the result is unreliable. When hole diameter drops below the plate thickness, the kerf taper and the molten pool make the hole conical. A 2 mm hole in 4 mm stainless often measures wider at the top than the bottom.
If the hole must accept a pin or a screw, drill or mill it after the cut. If it is only for clearance or ventilation, a laser cut hole is fine.
Does a laser cut change the material properties?
Yes, within 0.05–0.3 mm of the edge. The metal there is heated and cooled quickly, so the grain structure changes and hardness can rise. For mild steel this rarely matters.
For 17-4PH, tool steel, and titanium, it does. Either remove the zone with a light machining pass or allow for it in the heat-treat plan.
What edge finish should I expect from a laser cut?
A cut edge sits around Ra 3.2 μm or rougher. It shows fine vertical striations from the beam path and may carry light dross on the bottom face.
If the drawing calls for Ra 0.8–1.6 μm, add a finishing step. Bead blasting, tumbling, or a light face mill all bring the edge into that range.
Why does the cut taper on thicker plate?
The beam loses focus as it travels through the material, so the top of the kerf is wider than the bottom. On 6 mm plate the difference can reach 0.1 mm.
Higher gas pressure and a better focus position reduce taper, but they do not remove it. For holes that must be parallel, machine them after cutting.
Can I laser cut copper or brass?
Yes, with the right source. Copper and brass reflect much of the beam, so they need higher power and a tighter focus than steel. The cut is slower and the edge is less consistent.
If the part is a flat busbar or a shim, a laser cut still works. If it has tight tolerances or a fine edge, choose CNC milling instead.
How do I hold flatness on a thin laser cut part?
Heat input is the main cause of distortion on sheet below 1 mm. Reduce power, raise cutting speed, and keep the nesting loose so heat does not build up in one area.
If flatness still fails, cut the part slightly oversize and finish it on a mill. A light face cut on both sides restores flatness and removes the heat-affected zone.
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